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The Phanigiri Hilltop Monastery, Telangana, stands on top of a granite outcrop, around 150ft above the surrounding agricultural fields around it, and can be seen from a long way away. The name means Snake’s Hill. Some say because the shape of the hill seen from above looks like a snake’s hood.

It was built on trade routes stretching north-west into Maharasthra and the north on the one hand, and east to the coast and then north into Orissa and Bengal, connecting it to the northern centres of Buddhism on both routes.

This was a fully fledged monastery with a Mahā Stūpa, Chaitya Halls, over 140 Vihāras for the Saṅgha, and catchment areas for water. It appears to have been abandoned at some point, at which time many of its most precious artifcats were buried, perhaps hoping they would survive until the monks could return, though iot seems they never did.

Many of those artifacts are now in display at the accompanying ASI shed-museum which houses materials saved from the site, which include the remains of a toraṇa, or gateway, as well as statues, parts of the collapsed Mahā Stūpa and other artifacts.

At the foot of the hill, over one of the main wells that would have served the site, a small village-sized temple dedicated to Śrī Rāma has been built. I include photos from there also.

The Hilltop Site

The ASI Museum

The Museum which is at the base of the hill is easy to miss, as it is basically an unassuming shed next to the ASI office. Inside though are some very fine pieces recovered from the site, including sections of the Mahā Stūpa, parts of a toraṇa or gateway, and many other artifacts.

Temple to Śrī Rāma

This village-sized temple has been built over one of the main water supplies for the ancient site. It has many carvings of main characters from the Rāma story on the rock face; and testifies to the ongoing worship of the Nāgas, which played such a large role at the main site.